Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Postcard 6: Houseboat memories


No matter how entertaining the article about lodging on the water in Amsterdam was, it could not compete with my experiences in Kashmir, fifteen years ago. Already the title – ‘Holiday on a Houseboat’ - caused my mind to wander to the marvellous time I spent on the waters in Kashmir, India.

The barges in Amsterdam are convenient; however houseboats in Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir, are superlatives of luxurious, spacious and artistic woodwork. While lodging on an Amsterdam houseboat will give the tourist a feeling of fitting into the environment, on a Kashmir houseboat one will touch upon the life of a maharaja: you may sit outside on a beautifully decorated bench of the terrace deck and enjoy the cha and fruit that servants bring you several times a day. Houseboats in Amsterdam are self-catering, whereas a houseboat in Kashmir includes room-service.

Fifteen years ago, after the initial embarrassment and hesitation, I had surrendered to the status of raj, waved my hand and relaxed. In between relaxation I would let myself be paddled around by one or two locals across the silvery lakes covered with water lilies. A lovely Indian evening meal would be served, before I would find sleep in my king-sized bed. It is amazing that these days filled with nothing but luxury, leisure and oblivion have left such an imprint in my memory!

There were only a few moments that brought me down to earth from what seemed like paradise. The first one was an earthquake. Seeing the land on the horizon, water around me and furniture next to me move in unexpected directions frightened me a great deal. On other moments I was startled by the gunfire I heard far away. How ironic! The same time I enjoyed the beauties of Kashmir, separatists fought for it with still no clear outcome.

The truth is that each houseboat experience will have it’s up- and downsides. Nevertheless, I for my part have predominantly joyful memories of the days spent on the seemingly royal houseboat in Kashmir. Therefore I am grateful to have recovered those houseboat memories.

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